Hokusai: Great Wave off Kanagawa

MAST 602

Introduction to Physical Oceanography

Course Information

Course Text

  • Knauss, John A., 1997. Introduction to Physical Oceanography, 2nd Edition, Prentice-Hall.  

References on reserve in the library

  • Brown, Evelyn, Angela Colling, et al. (Open University) (1995). Seawater: its composition, properties and behaviour. Milton Keynes, Pergamon, 168 pp.

  • Brown, Joan, Angela Colling, et al. (Open University) (1989). Ocean Circulation. Oxford, Pergamon, 238 pp.

  • Brown, Joan, Angela Colling, et al. (Open University) (1989). Waves, Tides and Shallow-Water Processes. Oxford, Pergamon, 187 pp.

  • Pickard, George L. & William J. Emery (1990). Descriptive Physical Oceanography. Oxford, Pergamon Press, 320 pp.

  • Pond, Stephen & George L. Pickard (1983). Introductory Dynamical Oceanography. Oxford, Pergamon, 329 pp.

  • Sverdrup, H.U., Martin W. Johnson, et al. (1942). The Oceans, their physics, chemistry, and general biology. Englewood Cliffs, NJ, Prentice Hall, 1087 pp.

  • Warren, Bruce A. & Carl Wunsch, Eds. (1981). Evolution of Physical Oceanography. Cambridge, MA, MIT Press, 623 pp.

Instructor

Ferris Webster
Cannon 216, Lewes Campus
Tel: 302-645-4266
Fax: 302-645-4007

Course Grade

50% based on take-home problems,
50% based on the mid-term and end-of term tests:

 

8 take-home problem sets

160 points

44%

Mid-term open-book test

100 points

28%

End-of-term closed-book test

100 points

28%

A- -> A

85 - 100%

B- -> B+

70 - 84%

C- -> C+

60 - 69%

D

50 - 59%

F

below 50%

Course Schedule, Spring 2003

(Dates are approximate, as some subjects may take longer to cover than one session.)

Lecture

Date

Topics

1

14 Feb

Physical properties of the ocean and seawater, sound and light

2

21 Feb

Earth’s heat balance

3

28 Feb

Oceanic balance of heat, salt, & water

 

7 Mar

No class

4

14 Mar

Equations of continuity and motion

5

21 Mar

Balance of forces, the effect of Earth's rotation

 

28 Mar

Mid-term open-book test

 

4 Apr

No class: Mid-term break

6

11 Apr

Ocean currents

7

18 Apr

Deep currents and general ocean circulation

8

25 Apr

Surface waves

9

2 May

Tides and long-period waves

10

9 May

Delaware Bay and Continental Shelf physical oceanography

 

16 May

End-of-term closed-book test

I'll use the interactive TV (ITV) system and, depending on the course registration, will alternate between Lewes and Newark during the semester.


Course Outline

  1. Properties of the ocean and seawater, sound and light
    notes for this lecture (Adobe Acrobat [pdf] format) pdficonsmall.gif (153 bytes)
    • The scale of the ocean
    • Temperature
    • Salinity
    • Density
    • Static Stability
    • Other properties of seawater
    • Underwater sound
    • Absorption and scattering
    • Refraction of sound
    • Reflection of sound
    • Underwater sound applications
    • Underwater optics
  2. Earth's Heat balance
    notes for this lecture (Adobe Acrobat [pdf] format) pdficonsmall.gif (153 bytes)
    • Air-sea transfer of heat
    • Solar radiative energy,
    • Back radiation,
    • Evaporation (latent heat flux),
    • Sensible heat flux,
    • The enhanced greenhouse effect
    • The carbon cycle
    • Climate system modelling
    • Sea-level rise
  3. Oceanic balance of heat, salt, & water
    notes for this lecture (Adobe Acrobat [pdf] format) pdficonsmall.gif (153 bytes)
    • Seasonal heat storage
    • Advection of heat
    • Sea ice
    • Global heat balance
    • Interannual climate variability (El Niño and La Niña)
  4. Equations of continuity & motion
    notes for this lecture (Adobe Acrobat [pdf] format) pdficonsmall.gif (153 bytes)
    • Continuity
    • Molecular Diffusion
    • Turbulent Diffusion
    • Box models
    • Pressure gradient force
    • Coriolis force
    • Gravity
    • Friction
    • Shearing stress
    • Eddy viscosity
    • Reynolds stresses
  5. Balance of forces, the effect of Earth's rotation
    notes for this lecture (Adobe Acrobat [pdf] format) pdficonsmall.gif (153 bytes)
    • Hydrostatic equation
    • Dynamic height
    • Pressure gradients in layered fluids
    • Terminal velocity
    • Coriolis force: geostrophic flow
    • Inertial motion
    • Thermal wind equation
    • Wind stress on the sea surface
    • Ekman transport
    • Ekman spiral
    • Upwelling
    • Vorticity
    • Westward intensification of ocean currents
  6. Ocean currents
    notes for this lecture (Adobe Acrobat [pdf] format) pdficonsmall.gif (153 bytes)
    • General circulation
    • Western boundary currents
    • Gulf Stream structure
    • Eastern-side currents
    • Equatorial currents
    • Indian Ocean (Monsoon) currents
    • Antarctic Circumpolar Current
    • Arctic circulation
  7. Deep currents & general ocean circulation
    notes for this lecture (Adobe Acrobat [pdf] format) pdficonsmall.gif (153 bytes)
    • Thermohaline circulation
    • Water masses
    • Water-mass types
    • Bottom topographic effects
    • Microstructure, double diffusion
    • Mesoscale eddies
    • Langmuir circulation
  8. Surface waves
    notes for this lecture (Adobe Acrobat [pdf] format) pdficonsmall.gif (153 bytes)
    • Small-amplitude waves
    • Particle motion
    • Wave dispersion
    • Wave energy and momentum
    • Stokes waves and capillary waves
    • Wave spectrum
    • Wave propagation
    • Refraction and breakers
    • Longshore currents and rip currents
  9. Tides & long-period waves
    notes for this lecture (Adobe Acrobat [pdf] format) pdficonsmall.gif (153 bytes)
    • Tsunami
    • Seiches
    • Effects of Earth's rotation
    • Internal waves
    • Tidal forces
    • Equilibrium tide
    • Observed ocean tides
    • Tidal prediction
    • Tidal currents
    • Altimetric measurement of ocean currents
  10. Delaware Bay & Continental Shelf
    notes for this lecture (Adobe Acrobat [pdf] format) pdficonsmall.gif (153 bytes)
    • Continental shelf circulation
    • Delaware Coastal Current
    • Longshore flow
    • Estuarine circulation
    • Estuaries
    • Delaware Bay tides
    • Subtidal flow in Delaware Bay
    • Fronts

30 May, 2003